There’s a very basic lesson you learn when you first start surfing: West wind is better. West wind is offshore and cleans the surf. Basic knowledge.

My friends and I learned this in the late ’80s. We used to actually talk to people, as this was before Instagram. Back then, we had no way to really get a wind forecast, so as our parents drove over the bridge, we would examine the bay to see which way the wind was blowing, pretty much hanging out the window.