It was August, about 15 years ago. There was a southeast swell, a bit disorganized, but decent for summer. I was surfing early morning in Harvey Cedars with a few guys that I worked with in a restaurant. I remember a pretty good current. This was pre-replenishment when we had jetties – long, solid jetties that would shape up the sandbars all year ’round, jetties we could be proud of.

One of my friends took a beating on a set wave and actually got dragged across the jetty.