So, two weeks ago, I had this dream. I was surfing on the South End of LBI. After picking off this left, I got to the inside section and realized there was a bowl setting up. It pitched over and the offshore wind created the most perfect barrel. I just stood there as the lip blocked out the sun. It was kind of trippy – me just standing there, not grabbing rail or racing toward the shoulder – just “strobing,” as the young kids say.

And it must have been a dream because I think I’ve logged about one no-handed, backside barrel in my whole life on the…